Trip Reports

I attended a 3-day medicine course that was two parts Wilderness First Aid and one part "Oh no my leader just passed out on the 3rd pitch what do I do????"

The course was a joint venture by the dynamic duo Erik Griffith (of Vertical Pursuits) and Ryan Armstrong, an instructor with enough medical experience and acronyms to burst a can of alphabet soup.

I found the course supremely informative and helpful. As with most safety training, now that I have the knowledge I find myself aghast at how long I've been gallivanting about the outdoors without it. I highly recommend everyone take this course, or one similar, so you're not stuck rifling through your REI first aid kit for the first time while your leader is unconscious, unresponsive, and rapidly losing blood.

The first two days covered all the basics of Wilderness First Response, and having completed those 16 hours of instruction I was able to apply online for the official certification. This wasn't just dry book learning (though even their custom textbook wasn't dry at all) we ran through multiple hands-on scenarios in groups, actually trying out the single-use, and somewhat expensive, safety gear our instructors generously provided. Again, you don't want the first time you handle a vented chest seal to be the day you actually need to use one.

The third day we spent at the crag, practicing more rock-climbing specific scenarios. We practiced ascending and retrieving an injured leader, transitioning through an anchor on the way down. We practiced descending to an injured follower past a damaged section of rope. We practiced communicating as a team, assigning roles, and improvising with what we had. My favorite segment was "Oh no I dropped my ATC" alternative methods for rappelling.

Ryan leveraged years of medical, wilderness, and EMT experience to focus on what we have the ability to do as wilderness first responders. Erik guided us through actual climbing emergencies he had witnessed in his years as a guide. Together they truly are a dream team, and I hope their courses grow in popularity in the climbing community, for my sake, for yours, and for everybody's.

Nat Baykova

A crew of cragmont clubbers capitalized on a climbing class coupon! Erik, the owner of Vertical Pursuits, hooked us up with a discounted Trad Beyond the Basics course which promised to raise our trad leading levels from 5.low to 5.high. And it did!

David and Jessica arrived a day early and spied a colorful rave bubbling beneath the bridge. Being the community minded climbers they are, they set up a rappelling station and started handing out free rides to adventurous partygoers.

Scott and I arrived the next morning and met them, along with Erik and one other student, at Snowshed Wall in Donner Summit. We spent the day working on three trad routes in the best corner of the crag. Erik seemed to know every single other climber there - the vibe was that of a backyard BBQ but with more ropes.

We started with some mock leads on a 5.6 and a 5.9, followed by some true leading after Erik inspected our gear placements. After I led the 5.6, Erik suggested I try the 5.10b on top rope. Feeling a bit intimiated, I gave it a shot and fell a couple of times, but made it to the top in one piece. I did not feel confident that I could lead it, but Erik hyped me up until there I was, leading a 10b - the hardest grade I'd lead up till then was a 5.6. I fell twice and it wasn't even scary - the crux was very well protected and Erik was right there beside me on a static line, sharing the tips, beta, and encouragement I needed. I topped out victorious and only a little bloody, with a new found confidence for working on challenging trad routes without that extra top rope tether.

Huge shout out to Erik for sharing his skill, knoweldge, and impeccably good energy with us that Sunday. If you're ever looking for a course, hit him up!

Nat Baykova

Finn and I drove into Yosemite on Saturday morning and spent the day at Stately Pleasure Dome. I got to work on gear placement on a 2 pitch 5.3 trad route while David basically walked up the slope beside me and gave me pointers. It was great for building confidence as a trad newbie. Scott W and Finn followed, cleaned, and captured the perfect photo of David enjoying a hands-free, foot-free rest on the slope.

Later we joined Kathy, Nick, and Laura in climbing Turkey Trot, Jonah, and Potter in Wonderland. The slabby sport climbs seemed to grow hotter, steeper, and more slippery as the day went on - some of the bolts definitely migrated further apart when we weren't looking.

It was a pretty busy crag. A few groups descended from further up the dome, and we watched in fascinated horror as a deeply dysfunctional British family scrambled all over the routes to our right. We spent a good bit of time at the campfire that night trying to puzzle out just what the hell they were doing with those three ropes.

On Sunday Scott, David, Finn and I headed to Olmstead Canyon, where we later met up with Rahul and Pasha. This crag felt like a hidden gem - we nearly had the whole place to ourselves, just one other duo showed up.

Scott and I practiced aiding a tricky overhung crack route, Tideline, while David and Rahul projected a 12a route to our left, Body Double. Having aided up my route, I tried it on top rope and only got about 1/3 of the way before pumping out. Next thing I know, a super polite climber from the duo mentioned earlier sends the thing with the ease of a practiced dancer. There's nothing like wrestling with a tough climb then watching the coolest, most polite cucumber in the park waltz right up it like a salmon up river. He told me he'd been working on it all season, and had spent about 6 sessions working out the gear placement. It was a beautiful send and filled my cup with inspiration.

After that, Scott, Finn and I took turns sacrificing bits of our hands to the deceptively difficult 10a crack climb, Ivory Tower, Center. It was awful, Scott and I both want to come back and project that thing - mostly out of spite.

It was a wonderful trip, looking forward to the next one!

Nat Baykova

Scott Saifer hosted a summber BBQ Social event at the lake by his house. We had about 25 people show up. Everyone brought lots of great food. Breads, fruits, salads, desserts and more!

It was revealed that years ago Cragmont had an official club chef and Barbecue Grill. We were wondering where this grill is now and how can we find this historic relic.

In addition John Hart and Marc Phagan gave away old climbning items such as guide books, training books, rigid stemmed cams, a rick drill and many more items.

Hoping to get more non-climbing events like this soon. If anyone wants to host and event at a park or their home say the word and we'll make it happen.

It was a beautiful day and most of us got to the crag around 11am! There were 4 others climbing, and they were great help figuring out what top rope anchors would be best for the routes we wanted to attempt. Love the climbing community for always being helpful! We did note that next times we should carry an adjustable wrench to tighten bolts that some troublesome people must keep loosening. Definitely check the bolts before setting up anchors!

We set up 2 ropes, and swapped both once. Most did 2 routes, varying range, 5.6 to 5.10+. The temperature was perfect, inching closer to getting hotter just as everyone was about tired.

Around 2pm, we started to jump into the creek in our swimsuits, water was clear, refreshing, quite cold (maybe in the 60s), but perfect to end the outing. I be back to attempt the few remaining routes that I have yet to try!

Mohit

This was the day of my wife and I's wedding anniversary, and we were so hyped for the adventure. Vent 5 is an area that was recommended by so many, the excitement was real. When we arrived, there were exactly two spots remaining in the lot, one for my car and one for Mik's. We gathered the equipment and started the approach.

Approach was maybe 20 minutes, but absolutely gorgeous! Everywhere I looked, I wanted to take a picture- some I did! We walked past a few crags, and by the time we were at Juice Shop, I wanted to climb already. A group of us split off, as others continued to Vent 5. The group climbed 2 routes, attemped one, and made way to regroup at Vent 5.

Vent 5 was breathtaking, and the tidepools were filled with wildlife. Andria took a nap, others did a few routes, crabs climbed into Mik's bag, and I comtemplated stealing a crab or two because they were very cute! Before I knew it it was later and time to go.

Some others stayed for some other awesome routes, I am glad I didn't because it was very tiring to climb up with all the gear!

As someone new to the bay area, I am glad I got to see Vent 5 already within a few months of living here. Even as a hike I thought it was one of my favorites! Another successful day trip with Cragmont Climbing, I am enjoying scheduling these events and plan to confinue to do so! Hope to see everyone again!

Mohit

When Castle Rock was rained out, we improvised. Guadalupe Rock is a 45 minute drive east of Castle Rock, and is a hidden gem. A 50 ft boulder sitting pretty in the water flowing from the Guadalupe reservoir.

It seems to get a bad rap in the guide books due to varying conditions at the base - you may get your rope wet or your feet muddy depending on the water level. For us, the day was perfect, the approach was short, and we had the spot mostly to ourselves.

We climbed three top rope routes, all with easy access to the anchors by walking up the back. You should be careful though - it seems people like to fish and drink there and have removed or loosened the hardware in the past - so be sure to check your anchors carefully.

Half a dozen routes surround the massive boulder, and a spicy V4 traverse spans the bottom. I didn't try it because I didn't bring a swimming suit - if you fall the water is your crash pad. I definitely plan to revisit this spot when I get a chance

Nat Baykova

We started out running laps on grant's crack (5.9) on swan slab in the valley. It's a short single pitch that starts with some easy slab on large knobs and then transitions into a low-angle finger crack. Hands are good, feet less so. A short scramble leads to a final push up more easy slab. Bolted anchors at the top. This was my first 5.9 lead in the valley!

Once you've built an anchor, you can use a BD #2 or #3 to set a redirect over the top rope routes to the right. We spent some time on unnamed thin crack (5.10), which after you stuff yourself into or lie back an offwidth chimney leads to an... unnamed thin crack with small fingers. I struggled quite a bit, always finding my feet way too close to my hands on questionable holds. Pearl crushed it. But she's better at crack than I am so that's to be expected. If you keep towards the right near the top you have the opportunity for some fun slab moves that end in a mantle up a dinner plate. I like slab and my fingers were blasted, so this was my favorite part.

• Eric Schkufza

Fri

Arrive around midnight on Friday. Dave is exceptionally jetlagged and asleep in car.

Sat

Slow start, arrive in crag parking lot around 11:45 am, hoping to climb in Church Bowl area. We circle a few times, no luck. Migrate to a different lot, eventually find a spot, go to Swan Slab Gully instead. Eric wants to lead Grant's Crack, which we ran on TR a few weeks before. Not yet clean but a great lead. Dave goes next on TR, his first climb in a while. I go last, clean the route, struggle to find good locks this time around.

Eric TR's Grant's Crack again at my urging, and we set up a TR redirect for the unnamed 10A next door. Eric starts the 10A halfway up (from the blocky ledge), flails a bit. Dave is napping on a bench at this point. I start at the bottom and optimistically think I'll squeeze myself into the short chimney behind the ledge ... it's extremely dirty and the gear on my harness is too bulky. Switch to laybacking the arete instead of chimneying, then surprisingly manage to mostly cruise the section above (clean but with effort). Eric climbs the 10A again. I TR Grant's Crack 1x more (solid locks this time) and we call it a day.

After dinner we get to meet a bunch of folks at the campfire -- lovely time and lovely chats! Dave C. was mostly asleep on his chair.

Sun

We scout for a spot for Dave to paint in Tuolumne, settling on Tenaya Lake. Eric and I scramble, meander, and sunbathe nearby.

Everyone had a blast!!

Pearl Wu

We had a lovely local bouldering sess on a sunny Saturday morning at Indian Rock in Berekely. Eight or so climbers turned out, it was great to meet some new faces and cook up some climbing schemes.

We mostly stuck to the area near the water fountain and down in the pit. David, Scott and I worked on Nat's traverse (no relation) and enjoyed some very hippie home made granola bars

Nat Baykova

From Scott Saifer: The Voo is an amazing collection of granite outcroppings, sticking out of endless prairie near Laramie, Wyoming, an easy two-hour drive from Denver for those who would need to fly in. There is an amazing variety of climbing there, from easy 5.4s to 5.13s, and including many styles. We got on finger cracks, hand cracks, overhanging fists, off-widths, chimneys that get so wide you have to have to assume push-up position with feet on one wall and hands on the other (see pictures). There's even a bit of Tuolumne-like friction slab, only with less friction For the grade chasers, it's not the ideal spot as the grading feels more like Yosemite than Vent 5. There are a few sport routes and a lot of trad, plus a few "trad bolted" as opposed to "sport bolted" routes. For those who are not familiar with the terms, "sport climbing" is not supposed to be bold or dangerous. The bolts are close enough together that any possible falls are short and the climber can focus on the movement without being distracted by the danger. "Trad bolting" is supposed to bold and dangerous. The bolts are far apart and the routes should only be lead by leaders who are competent at the grade and in the climbing style. Long falls are possible and accepting that is part of the challenge of a trad bolted route.

Scott Saifer

CCC enjoyed clear skies and warm temperatures for its first trip of the season. We had 18 people in 3 campsites in Yosemite Valley. Scott, David, Pasha, and Edinson showed up early on Friday and climbed at Reed's Pinnacle. Saturday was a big adventure day.

Patrick, Davin, Danica, and Bennet hiked to the top of Snow Creek trail and enjoyed an amazing view. Susana and Keenan climbed Jamcrack.

Ken, Edinson, and David climbed 5-pitch Nutcracker. Scott and Pasha climbed 5-pitch After 6. Then a small group climbed the first pitch of CS Concierto and finished off the day with 2 pitches of Harry Daley. Keenan and Claudia hiked up to Vernal Falls.

Saturday evening we had a campfire and get-together. On Sunday, Ken and Pasha climbed Commitment. David, Scott Edinson, Patrick, and Bennet climbed at Swan Slab Gully.

Suman introduced Mihir to climbing at Church Bowl while Priya took photos.

Ken Landau